1970 1st - A Pictorial History of Surfing by Frank Margan & Ben R. Finney

Description

Comprehensive photo-laden history of surfing, capping off the end of the sixties and the long-board era, Because it is from Australia, it gives a down-under view of the sport, but not neglecting the importance of Hawaii, California, even Britain, to the sport. We have healthy profiles of Duke Kahanamoku, Midget Farrelly, Nat Young, Keith Paul. Good details about Australia's unique beach-oriented culture and the connection between the nation's surf life saving clubs in relation to the rising popularity of riding boards in the waves.
This book features an index, bibliography and a glossary.
What's most important about any surfing book from the sixties era, the authors of this book were NOT hacks. They show a surfer's understanding of the sport and a reverence for its history. This 324-page, large format book, for its breath and depth of subject matter, it's massive amount of historical photos, and authenticity, is one of the stand-out, "only-a-surfer-knows-the-feeling" general surfing histories published by 1970, and remains a foundational reference for many books to come after.